We had not planned to visit Luxembourg, but since the route from Stenay to Trier skirted the southern edge of its capital, and Gill found an inexpensive ACSII site on a a handy bus route into the city, we thought, "Why not?" After all, rule number one of our trips - visit new places!
A seriously un-grand entrance to le Grande Duchy |
So, before lunch we were parked-up in Camping Bon Accueil in Alzingen, a southern suburb of Luxembourg City, if you regard the place as being big enough to have suburbs. The capital itself has roughly the same population as a regional city in England - like Bath, for example. Continuing a West Country theme, the entire country is only the size of Somerset, but with only half the English county's population. Like Somerset, the countryside is pleasant rather than spectacular. Where the analogy breaks-down is around economics, according to the International Monetary Fund, the UK is the 19th richest country in the world in terms of GDP per capita ($45,653); Luxembourg is number one, with a GDP per capita of $111,716.
Perhaps you might suspect this as you sit on the bus wending its way through pleasant suburbs towards the city centre as it passes through the 'car dealer' area - not Nissan, Hyundai, Ford and Renault here, but Porsche, Aston Martin, Bentley and BMW. Yet in the city itself, it is not conspicuously wealthy, like Monaco or Cannes. There are designer places - Gucci - and the like, but these are mixed with more everyday shops.
Macdonalds is just up the road! |
It's as if the Luxembourgers have raised the notion of 'well-to-do to a whole new level; they may be rich, but they are not shouting about it. Wandering around the old streets the atmosphere is relaxed, it exudes a quiet confidence. Judged purely on appearances, you may be tempted to repeat The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy's description of planet Earth - 'mostly harmless...'
No rushing about... |
This statue to the Duchesse stands in the square next to the Ducal residence. |
Orderly and well heeled, that's Luxembourg |
We stopped for a coffee. At 9 euros for two noisettes it was considerably more expensive than in neighbouring France or Germany, but we did get two small cakes, and the coffee was good, and the waiter exceptionally polite!
That's right Pete, stare at the camera with menacing intensity... |
Nice shady square.. |
The European Union flag seemed to fly a little higher than the national one outside the parliament. You sensed no euro-scepticism here whatsoever; clearly Luxembourg is very proud of its role as one of the founding members of the EU. Undoubtedly, it has benefited. Luxembourg's history is one of being used as a diplomatic pawn in the struggles between the great European powers over the past 300 years. It has been ruled by more or less every European royal dynasty over the years apart from the Swedish and British. In the latter part of the 19th century, its anomalous position was underlined by the fact that it was nominally governed by the Netherlands, but Germany's claim to the territory was acknowledged by the fact that a Prussian regiment was based in the castle. During the 20th century it was invaded twice by Germany. The EU is regarded here as guarantee of its national sovereignty, not as in the UK, a threat to it.
Flying the flag(s) outside the Chamber of Deputies |
So, it's not so surprising that you find a European Union information centre, complete with a display of commissioners and their roles, and a map showing the dates of accession of the member states. When you look at the economic potential, cultural capital and shared history of the disparate nations which make-up the EU, I do question - is this a club that our little island can afford to leave. I realise, though I am in a minority, I have as strong a sense of being a European as I do of having a national identity. I feel very at home in Europe.
So, final thoughts about Luxembourg - nice place - perhaps their national aspirations were summed up on a board outside a trendy looking bar/restaurant that Gill snapped...
It is, however, worthwhile noting the name of the street where the place is situated.....
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