All the while we sweltered in a sub-tropical climate on the coast it was autumn inland. Temperatures in the mid twenties, dropping towards single figures overnight were typical in Castille La Mancha and northern Valencia. We would have headed there straightaway, but the lower temperatures were accompanied by violent thunderstorms. However the forecast now looks to be improving in central Spain. We decided to seek cooler conditions inland. I found a campsite near an embalse in the mountains near Baza. Maybe I could use my paddleboard there, I wondered.
We needed to shop on the way, which probably meant having a stop-over between Los Escullos and our intended destination. Back to Mercadona at Campohermoso then onwards to the southern end of the Cabo de Gata national park to the free parking area at La Fabriquila that we've used before.
It's got a great view of the crescent shape bay that sweeps southwards from the Cabo de Gata lighthouse to the mountainous promontory beyond Almeria. In other words it's quite an exposed spot, and the disadvantage of staying overnight here soon became apparent.
By early afternoon the temperature inside the van reached the high thirties despite every skylight and window being wide open. We were heading for a very uncomfortable night. So we packed up and headed inland to the free area autocaravanas at Guadix. Though the town is in the middle of the desert at the back of the Sierra Nevada, it lies at over 900m and at that altitude nights are cool no matter how hot the day.
The town itself is famous for the troglodyte houses on its outskirts and an impressive collection of Baroque buildings around the cathedral, but we've visited them before so we just stayed put in the big dusty carpark behind the main shopping street. It's unprepossessing, but practical and free!
Camping Rural La Cabañuela, our planned destination, lies in the the Sierras north of Baza. The villages nearby are famous for troglodyte dwellings, in Frailes the majority of the older houses are fashioned from caves. However the area by the Embalse de Negretin where the campsite is located feels semi-abandoned The stoney garrigue is dotted with villas that judging by their 'neo- mudejar' styling look to have been constructed in the nineties. Half finished and abandoned ones out-numbered those that were occupied.
It was only when we walked down towards the embalse the following day that we were able to make sense of this. According to the information board in the car park the reservoir was completed in 1986. Clearly part of the plan was to develop the area for leisure and tourism, hence the children's play park down by the shingly shore and the 'beach bar' next to it.
Both looked to have seen better days. On the side of the hill above them there used to be a restaurant, its lovely terrace taking in a spectacular view of the reservoir and the wrinki cliffs on the opposite shore. The place was in ruins.
The campsite looked to date from the same era. It was still functioning though the facilities were now somewhat worn.
When we booked-in the receptionist mentioned that the forthcoming weekend would be very busy as the following Monday was Spain's national day. We have experienced how Spanish people celebrate - loudly and very enthusiastically. We booked-in for two nights planning to find somewhere quieter to stay over the holiday weekend.
Our plan to find somewhere cooler was at least partly successful, it was very hot in the middle of the day but the temperature dropped considerably overnight. It meant we slept more soundly and mornings were pleasant.
My plan to paddleboard on the embalse didn't happen. It turned out to be a 500m trek down to the water and the road was steep and gravelly. Furthermore the big embalse had a rocky shoreline, it was a little too daunting. Sadly I've got past the stage of being adventurous, seeking Zen like calm rather than excitement.
And simply trotting about the area was quite calming with fabulous views westwards towards the distinctive bulk of Cerro Jabalcón...
and the fascinatingly scrunched-up cliffs on the opposite side of the reservoir...
The campsite was almost empty until a dozen or so all-terrain motorhomes turned up. Maybe there are unmetalled tracks over the nearby badlands where you are allowed to enjoy the vehicles' off-road capability.
Otherwise owning an 'expedition truck'must be simply annoying, too big for most campsites, impossible to park in a supermarket carpark and guzzling diesel at a rate that would empty most people's bank accounts after a few months use. Like supercars and superbikes they are undoubtedly 'boys toys'. How many females own a Harley or Ferrari? Very few, I suspect, but more likely than finding a woman driving a Man monster expedition truck. Intrigued I researched them. To buy one secondhand, around five years old with less than 100,000 miles on the clock, will set you back about £275,000 according to Chatgpt. In truth I can't remember seeing a UK plated one, the ones here at the moment are a mix of German, Swiss and Dutch plates. Anyway, they are ridiculous objects even if they do have a Miele washing machine and dishwasher built in.
We took the receptionist's advice and left before the weekend influx, but with no real plan as regards where to go next, which is unlike us; we're not given to just wandering about.