Yesterday we moved from Cornwall's north coast to the south. We are staying at a Camc stalag near Looe, it seemed a good idea back in March when booking anywhere was difficult.
I understand why there is a fair amount of antipathy towards motorhomes in the local press. Beyond the main trunk routes places are connected by what are best described as asphalted cart tracks, narrow, steep sided, and winding, very alarming when buses or HGVs head towards you. The thousands of motorhomes and caravans crowded into the county must make driving for local people stressful and frustrating. It's a tad embarrassing to be part of the problem.
One of the reasons why we chose the site is it is situated a little over a mile from the centre of Looe, and a nearby lane runs down to the beach at Millendreath. We figured we could park the van and use the ebikes to explore the locality, which is what we tend to do on our longer trips.
We did make it by bike down to the beach but it proved trickier than we had anticipated. The lane was very steep and single track. Going down triggered Gill's vertigo and riding back up tricky even on an Ebike, the challenge exacerbated by having to dismount and squeeze into the bank to let a constant stream of SUVs pass. Not relaxing at all.
Similarly the road into town looked hazardous for bikes. Instead we consulted the bus times outside the gate. There appeared to be an hourly service. We use buses all the time when traveling in Europe, I don't know why it seemed slightly odd to do so here. Anyway, next day the bus duly at arrived at 12 minutes past noon and along with a gaggle of fellow 'seniors' we shuffled on board.
Like Padstow, the centre of Looe was heaving with visitors. It takes a bit of effort to see past the crowds, the wall of tacky tourist shops and lame visitor attractions to appreciate that Looe is a picturesque town, mostly Victorian but with a much older settlement at its heart, forming a maze of narrow alleyways. Some of the stone mullioned cottages looked to be from the sixteenth century..
What was also heartening is the place still has an extensive working fish quay, though how long that will remain viable post Brexit remains to be seen.
After last month's inedible pasty in Woolacombe we were keen to experience a proper Cornish one. They were on offer in dozens of places, but Gill's careful research of on-line reviews yesterday evening paid dividends. We concur with Nick's review...
How to find the place? The shop's website gives precise instructions -'Turn right at the Mountain Warehouse and follow the delicious smell...'
After a couple of hours simply mooching about we felt we had exhausted West Looe's delights. We wandered across the bridge and up the steep hill leading to Hanneford Point.
You get a great view of the harbour and the rocky coastline from St George's Island then eastwards towards Ramehead.
Marine drive is lined with hotels and guest houses jostling for the best sea view. The largest, 'Raffles' seemed to be aspiring to a lost imperial splendour., so right on the zeitgeist I guess.
However most of the guest houses seemed more John Cleese than Somerset Maugham. Very Fawlty Towers I suspect, but who I am I to judge? Apart from a couple of days in Travelodges in Bournemouth and Torquay we have no experience whatsoever of the joys of British seaside lodgings. Maybe we've missed out!
Time to catch the bus back to the campsite. Very impressive - the Cornish bus service. On time, the main bus stops boasting electronic displays showing arrivals and delays, the drivers helpful and friendly; most impressively they manoeuvre the big double deckers on roads most people would balk at driving a milk float down. We've had fun, a grand day out as Wallace and Grommet might say.
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