Three Bs and Beyond

The first 'B''is for Bergerac where we are planning to stop for a couple of days. Again we experimented with a different route south taking a middle way between two usual routes, one of which heads through the Poitou Charente via Poitiers and Saintes, the other through Limoges and the Perigord. This time we headed for Anguoleme and Riberac. What do we think? Well, it's quieter than the other two, but some stretches of the D13 are narrow. As for the scenery, pleasantly wooded with occasional vistas over low rolling hills - attractive rather than stunning.

Bergerac is a pretty riverside town with half timbered houses and shadowy squares. The camping municipal is on the opposite bank to the historical centre. We have a great view of the Dordogne from our pitch , a peaceful scene mostly, occasionally animated by training sessions of the Sport Nautique de Bergerac located across from us. The beginners skulls group is particularly entertaining as they have not quite mastered rowing in a straight line yet. Either that, or they all drunk, there does seem to be a lot of whooping and shrieking.

Riverside pitch

Before lunch we walked into town. The food we brought with us is beginning to run low. After talking a few photos of the old houses we happened across the covered market, a contemporary steel structure designed to blend in with the traditional architecture around it. It was quite small, ten or so stalls selling local produce. 

Bergerac's old streets

The market hall is recent

This is what Buxton Market Square could do with we agreed. It's a tourist town, surely the demand is there from locals and visitors. As it stands the attempts to revive the traditional open air market are doomed by the rainy climate. Perhaps British people are insufficiently interested in locally sourced food, or maybe there are insufficient local suppliers.

This conversation kept us occupied while we bought items for lunch and entertained ourselves snapping examples of quirky French design, they are masters of the inadvertently naff.

Quircky duck ornaments

Truly ghastly statue of the town's most illustrious son - Cyrano de Bergerac.

By the time we were crossing the bridge back to the campsite around 1sh it had developed into a glorious early autumn day, deep blue sky, temperatures in the upper twenties, the trees beginning to colour. We must treasure these moments as it can be changeable at this time of year no matter how far south you wander.

So we had a relaxed afternoon by the van. We travelled 700 miles in four days to get here, much of it on 'D' roads which take extra care to drive on. We can sustain an average of 150 miles per day and feel ok, more than that and the driver becomes grumpy.

Long junch

'Beer o'clock with a view

Later I took the opportunity to take my second 'run'. I have downloaded the BBC app. 'Couch to 5k' which purports to be able to gently lead couch potatoes from sofa to a five kilometre run over a period of nine weeks. We shall see. I am still at the self conscious 'I feel bloody ridiculous' stage as I wheeze along, but I suppose I will get over that.

Evening on the river

Back to the question of Bs. Two more - battery buggered! We are not sure, but twice on the way down while wild camping the leisure battery has drained in the morning. This van has a single battery whereas the previous one had two. Still, given we have solar power we don't think it should run out of juice like this. The results - much Googling about leisure batteries - gel or AGM, 'amp hours', deep cycle versus dual use... the extent of our ignorance is spectacular. We have found a moho dealer service centre near Bergerac airport, maybe on the way to Marmande tomorrow we will take a look. The question remains, is our leisure battery completely buggered, or just a feeling a little elderly?