Bugs in the van, snake in in the grass.

There is a reason Camping La Gave is only €13.60 per night, it"s somewhat ramshackle and the facilities are basic. However, the owners are very welcoming and its position, next to the river and a short uphill stroll from the beautiful village of Sauveterre de Béarn make it a good place for an overnight stop.

It's odd how your reaction to places changes over time. I remember taking a photo of the war memorial in the centre of the village the last time we were here, about ten years ago. I felt the monument was crass and over-sentimental. However, today I was touched by it. At least it memorialises grief and loss, not the usual myths of sacrifice and the glorious dead. Everybody loses in wars, the victors and the vanquished equally. I can't be doing with all the British Legion poppycock, it will be good to be abroad this November as the centenary of the armistice will be even more ridiculous than usual.

The other thing in Sauveterre de Béarn that I missed on our previous visit was its church. I did not miss it literally, the monument is enormous, but I failed to notice just how beautiful it is. A great example of late Romanesque and early Gothic. The tympanum sculptures are unusually well preserved - Christ in Majesty, a more uplifting image than the Last Judgement scenes which adorn many other churches from the same period in southwest France.

The most popular tourist spot in the village is the old thirteenth century bridge below the walls. It was built as a toll bridge when the village was a stopping place for pilgrims heading for Santiago.

When we returned to the van we did another quick bug audit. Only two in the cab door jamb, I think we are winning here finally. The late afternoon light was beautiful. I grabbed the Canon and took a stroll along the riverbank hoping the DSLR would capture the colour more accurately than the camera phone. I've become quite lazy about taking photos. I used to make more of  an effort.

Walking back sometime caught my eye, a movement among the fallen leaves at the side of the path. A snake! The biggest one I have ever seen outside of a zoo, perhaps two feet long. Without getting too close I managed to photograph it.

After a bit of Googling I decided it may have been a juvenile western whip snake. Quite common and not venomous. I was pleased it was a young one, adults can grow up to a couple of metres apparently.

Tomorrow, onwards to San Sebastian. We are looking forward to the pintxos and if the weather continues to improve I might even manage a swim.