We think this is our fourth visit to Seville. It's an interesting city with a rich and complicated history so we always manage to do something different every time we have been here; it's not a place you become easily bored with.
This being said, in some respects there are distinct similarities between all our visits - every time we have stumbled upon an example authentic flamenco somewhere among the dozens of flouncy skirted wannabes that inhabit the tourist hotspots. Also we seem doomed to end the day weary and footsore.
I think the reason for the latter malaise is the result of where we stay. The nearest secure place to the centre to park a moho overnight is in Seville's dock area near the Ponte Delicias.
It really is as unromantic a spot as the location implies. The area autocaravanas is a sideline for a major vehicle distribution outfit. Every day dozens of articulated car transporters roll up with shrink wrapped shiny motors of all descriptions straight off the world's assembly lines. The place specialises in getting them showroom ready, whereupon empty transporters turn up to whisk them off to Iberia's forecourts. As you might appreciate, this is not a relaxing place to be. Luckily activities come to a close around 6pm. Sadly the docks across the river don't, a cacophony of metallic crashes, screeches and clanks continue until tennish, occasionally joined by a high pitched whine that sounds like a gigantic Dyson vacuum cleaner.
This may explain our weariness, but not why we are pill-popping ibuprofen to stave off the effects of tendinitis. Our aching feet is due to the fact that although the towers of Seville's centre are clearly visible from where we are staying it's a longer trek than it appears. In fact I've just checked on Google maps, from here to the cathedral is 3.5kms. a tad short of a five mile return walk I figure. Factor-in that Seville's old centre is extensive, the narrow streets a maze in which you are sure to get lost - then over the course of a half day visit you can easily clock-up a 10 mile hike. It's a great city to wander around, but exhausting.
I imagine a native of Andalucia might object to me calling Seville the city of flamenco, for the dance's roots are complicated and subject of much debate.
What is certain in terms of it being danced in the street it seems more prevalent here than anywhere else we have been. Also it happens that in Seville you are more likely to stumble upon ensembles that transcend the flouncy cartoon version of the dance on offer by most street performers.
At times the group we watched in Plaza España achieved a level of intensity that was spine-chilling.
I became slightly entranced by the dancer's foot movements, how at times they made slow geometric patterns, then at other times became percussive instruments.
Her skill was breathtaking. I realise we could book a show in one of the places in Seville that specialises in flamenco, but I prefer just to happen upon it, to come across something marvelous while 'just dully walking along', as Auden put it .
In some ways I think perhaps this was the highlight of the day. The small place just past the cathedral where we have had really good tapas previously this time did not seem quite on point.
Part of the restaurant was being refurbished and our meal was disturbed from time to time by the sound of an angle grinder next door. The staff behind the bar had the bright idea to turn-up Lady Gaga to full volume to drown-out the builders. We left as quick as possible to find another place to have coffee. Though Gill ordered an espresso with a dash of milk what arrived was a small cappuccino. This displeased her greatly.
One site we had never seen in the city is the redevelopment of Plaza de la Encarnación. In the late noughties the German architect Jürgen Mayer redesigned this workaday square to the north of the city centre by installing the biggest wooden structure in the world right in the middle of it.
It is arresting. Sevillians likened it to a giant waffle or enormous mushrooms. The latter name stuck and now the ediface, originally dubbed 'Metropol Parasol', has been renamed 'Las Sentas de la Encarnación'.
We've seen a few of these high profile pieces of post-modern urban theatrics on our travels - Valencia's 'Cuidad de las Artes y las Ciencas', Singapore's redevelopment of Marina Bay and closer to home 'The Shard'. In terms of being jaw-dropping each of them achieves the 'wow factor' they crave. The question remains how will they be regarded in two or three decades? Examples of millennial folly or visions of a brave new urbanism...who knows.
Like most of these projects the one in Seville divided local opinion, took twice as long to complete than planned and ended up €25 million over budget. Articles about 'Las Sentas de la Encarnación' are a bit vague about the final cost, some quote a figure of €85 million, others €100 million. On the face of it that does seem a lot of money for a big pile of wood.
However, everything is relative, at least the monument has a social function, the ground floor contains a market and an archaeological museum, the upper floor an indoor children's play area and the roof is a tourist attraction with walkways giving a spectacular vista across the rooftops of the ancient city. Not that we were able to experience these delights, for some reason access to it was fenced off.
Compare that to our home town's over budget project. The restoration of Buxton's grade one listed Regency crescent has taken well over a decade, cost in excess of £65 million. It will have no benefit to the community whatsoever aside from looking nice - it is destined to become an up-market spa hotel. How is that value for money given the millions ploughed into the project by English Heritage and the National Lottery? Buxton has a population of about 28,000, Greater Seville's is well over one million. This surely makes 'La Sentas' a bargain, even if the thing does look like an enormous waffle.
With that thought in mind we limped back to the van. Halfway through the night the rain started. We have three wet days to look forward to. Not great, you can change many aspects of your journey, but not the weather
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