North and South

I mentioned a couple of posts ago about palm tree Med and pine tree Med. As you head towards the Catalan border you are definitely in the latter territory, not just the pines, but the eucalyptus trees, the shrubby evergreen garrigue and neatly trimmed olive plantations all conspiring to make it look very verdant for the first day of March. Spring has followed us north; whereas in Murcia the almond blossom was falling, here the cherries are in full flower, pink patches and white patches dotting the landscape. It is very jolly.

We  found an interesting place the park overnight in the heart of the Ebro delta. Suddenly it looks like a more familiar early spring. The rice fields are fallow, white barked poplars and silver birches line the narrow lanes; their bare branches seem shockingly under-dressed. Having spent weeks in the south, deciduous trees and bare loamy soil seems exotic. The light too is more pallid, the colours less intense and there is a chilly edge to the breeze whipping across the salt flats.

Gill is happy; she loves plains and flat landscapes saying that the big skies give places greater presence. I can understand that. There are new flower species too - purple grape hyacinths and small yellow flowers that we think may be a type of marigold.

The rear section of the car park of the Casa de Fusta restaurant has been set up for motorhomes, there must be room for about forty or so and it was almost full. It would be a relaxing place to stay but for the interjections of the attendant. Spain does not do 'jobs worths' generally, but there exceptions to every rule. It's free to park, but the service point, including water and the WC emptying point is chained-off. It costs €3.00 and is only accessible while the place is attended. I would rather simply pay a flat €5 charge at a meter and do without the grupenfuhrer.

We noticed people wanderering about in the morning clutching a stick of bread. Since there were no shops for miles we presumed the restaurant was selling them. Though only 10.30am. the cafeteria was packed with locals tucking into breakfast. Almost every table had a litre carafe of wine on it and the bar was doing a roaring trade selling shots of rum spiked with a cloudy liquor made from local rice. So much for the healthful Mediterranean diet! 

Last week it was announced that Spain had taken over from Scandinavia as the healthiest in Europe. How? It's full of cake shops and no one bats an eyelid at the sight of mid-morning 'beer o'clock'. Personally I don't think diet is the biggest factor - it's a very relaxed place, people are friendly and kind to each other. Catch a stranger's eye and they will smile back, kids are hugged and fussed over. I was about to write 'lavished with attention' - how English that phrase is, that human interaction is something of a luxury to be rationed. Too much of it and children become 'spoilt'. If you think about it - what a silly idea. I think the health gap between north and south has a lot to do with positive social relationships and a convivial culture. The thing I will miss most about Spain is its people.