A change of plan. Let's stop for lunch at the big dune. The was a small car park at Acantilado del Asperillo, however it was unsigned and we sailed straight past it. Maybe we would not have bothered anyway, the forest here, and for the next 15 kilometres, consisted of charred, skeletal trees. Gill checked on Google. In June two days of wildfires swept through the western margins of tbe Donana. The stark contrast of sand dunes and charcoal trees produced an eerie post-apocalyptic landscape.
Last time we almost had the place to ourselves, but that was early spring, definitely low season. Now there was hardly a pitch to be had. Suddenly, after days and days of relative solitude people here were in droves. Our journey, which feels at times like our own personal odyssey is suddenly re-cast as a demographic trend. We are simply another grey-haired couple with a motorhome seeking sunshine. It's a good thing to have one's illusions challenged, but only in retrospect, at the time it feels bloody annoying!