The Drapano Apocalypse

Tuesday, November 3rd.

I've written before about long term travel by motorhome being an odd combination of the mundane and extraordinary. If I ever needed evidence to prove it, then last Tuesday has to be it. It dawned cloudy with a real autumnal nip in the air.  In the morning we pedalled to neaby Tolo, described as the least Greek looking place in the Peloponnese, this seemed a bit harsh, but it must not have seemed particularly picturesque, as no photos were duly snapped.

We stopped off on the way back at some ancient remains between Tolo and the campsite. The coastal citidel of Asini must once have been impressive. The nearby Polis of Argos (no shopping jokes please) trashed the place in the early Classical era because the Asinians had snuggled up to the Spartans - always a dodgy strategy We liked the massive stonework, the shaped giant blocks reminded us of Etruscan ruins. I noted the nearby beach - clear water, handy pier - as somewhere good to swim.

Lunch - grilled pears, with toasted olive oil drenched bread, Greek salad,and thyme honey drizzled over masrcapone....it's a hard hand to mouth existence we have to endure, but we put on a brave face.

In the afternoon we pedalled along the empty southern shore of the Vivari Lagoon, a nearby tidal inlet. Gill had fun annoying sea urchins with a stick.

In the evening, we took a stroll at sunset along the local beach, the clouds had parted a little, but it was decidedly chilly, so we went back to the van. A good, but ordinary day.

We had only been back a few minutes when Gill noticed a purplish light behind the trees. It's a very shaded site, no real view. We toyed with the idea of going back out, decided we were settled for the night, but something made us change our mind.

We walked the 100m or so to the beach, in the West, the sunset had developed to something of epic, apocalyptic proportions, The astonishing cloudscape persisted for at least 15 minutes, getting ever darker and more numinous. It was simply an astonishing, unforgetable sight, sublime, in the Burkean sense of the word.

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